Sunday 29 September 2013

Russian Infantry Greatcoat (Russia, reign of Nikolay I)

http://vivandiere-shop.com/14-35-thickbox/russian-infantry-greatcoat.jpg

Historical description:

XIX century

Since 1820th the greatcoat becomes a main type of outer clothing during military campaigns in Russian army.
During the Crimean War of 1853-56 army used only overcoats, having dress coats in warehouses.

Greatcoat made of gray cloth is an essential part of an image of the soldier of army of the Nikolay I. Soldiers were wearing it during the winter and summer, they slept on it. The greatcoat was clothes, tent and a blanket for the soldiers.

Historical sources:

During the reconstruction of a design of this greatcoat we followed the exemplary pattern which has remained in documents, the text description of 1848, and also used as an example some original greatcoat which have remained in one of Crimean museums.

Brass buttons are made on the samples found on fields of battles of the Crimean war.

Features of a design:

The overcoat is made of gray not colored cloth. Its density and the pattern correspond to original samples.
The lining is made from a grey linen cloth.

The overcoat is delivered in completely ready look, with the sewn shoulder straps, hooks, buttons. 7 leather loops and 7 leather buttons are included into a set. They are intended for folding overturned flaps. There are a linen band and a leather button also. These details are for individual adjustment. You should install them by yourself according to your size.

Shoulder straps are made completely manually, are stitched by a linen thread. Loops are manually whipped and buttons are sewn by the thicker thread.

Manual trimming of shoulder straps and loops gives overcoats nice authentic appearance.

All seams are made by sewing machine, but they are executed in such a manner that can be easily replaced on manual seams. That will give to historical clothes special charm.

* The greatcoat is made in the 3 sizes. Every size is designed on high height person. So probably, individual adjustment on length is required.

The overcoat is shortening on following conditions: flaps should not reach the earth from 11 to 15 cm (depending on growth), sleeves should cover a bone where the thumb begins when hands are lowered along legs.

* Loops for flaps overturning are sewn how is specified on the drawing. When loops are sewn, places of a attaching of buttons are marked so that flaps in the fastened condition reached knees.

* Linen band is sewn to an overcoat lining at waist level. It is passed through 9 pieces of leather straps sewn to a lining (see the last image of this product).

When linen band is clasped, it holds 7 folds on an overcoat back, and also, pulls together an greatcoat in a waist, giving it a recognizable "bell-shaped" silhouette.

* Overcoats are delivered with stitched folds on a back. These folds are require to be ironed out carefully. Then it is possible to remove thread that holds folds.















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